Rustic Retreat
By Andie Gibson 

         If you’re looking for a peaceful, picturesque getaway that’s off the beaten bath (and I mean way off), make plans to head north to the Fort Lewis Lodge.
         Located near Millboro in Rockbridge County, the Fort Lewis Lodge is a true escape, an idyllic hideaway where all there is to do is relax and enjoy the natural beauty of this pristine 3,200 acres of meadows, forest and rivers amid the Allegheny Mountains.
         Getting there was one of the most enjoyable parts of the trip my husband Chris and I made to the Fort Lewis Lodge last April on the persistent recommendation of Al Persinger, a Bedford native who I truly believe has been on every back road in the state of Virginia. We drove north up to Lexington where we hit Rt. 39, taking it west as it meandered along the picturesque Maury River and through the dramatic mountain gorge of the Goshen Pass. From there, it’s a series of small roads (check the web site for detailed directions) that lead you to this secluded piece of heaven, owned and operated by John and Caryl Cowden for the past 18 years.
         “Our background is in agriculture and for 10 years we farmed the property exclusively,” said John Cowden. “To support that income we started easing into hospitality, and that just grew and grew. We now lease out the farm ,and all our energies are put into the lodge.”
         According to Cowden, Colonel Charles Lewis built a small stockade to protect the southern pass of Shenandoah Mountain from Indian raids in 1750. Colonel Lewis went on to die a hero’s death fighting the Shawnee (allies of the British) in the 1774 Battle of Point Pleasant, now widely regarded as the first conflict of the American Revolution. Cowden said the property is essentially the same as it was more than 200 years ago.
         Everything about the lodge, which is open April through October, is relaxing, including the accommodations. Rooms in the main lodge are furnished in Shaker style. The renovated silo features a spiral staircase leading to three private bedrooms-in-the-round and a lookout from atop with expansive views of the river.
         A handful of hand-hewn log cabins offer more privacy – and amenities. Decorated in a rustic style, the cabins include stone fireplaces, rocking chair porches, refrigerators and coffee makers. Riverside, a quaint plantation-style house, is the newest addition to the property. Set a on a hill a short distance away from the other accommodations, it features five spacious rooms with private baths and beautiful views of the river and mountains.
         And you can leave your TV Guide at home. None of the rooms have televisions or telephones. We did have cell phone reception and a satellite-enabled television was available in the game room along with ping pong, pool and a variety of board games.
         “Ironically, we get far more compliments than complaints on that,” Cowden said. “People enjoy not having a TV in the background or phones ringing.”
         But why stay inside when there’s so much to do out? Several hikes of varying difficulty are close by, including the one Chris and I tackled. The Hickory Loop, which took us to the southern end of Shenandoah Mountain, provided a spectacular view of the lodge in the valley below.
         Biking – road and mountain – is also popular or you can head to the swimming hole in the Cowpasture River to enjoy jumping off the floating dock, kayaking or intertubing.
         Anglers choose the Fort Lewis Lodge because of the superb fishing in the miles of clean river (catch and release only). The Cowpasture holds a large population of smallmouth bass, and rainbow trout are stocked in the early spring for traditional anglers and fly fishermen.
         After you’ve worked up an appetite, join fellow guests for a drink at Bucks Bar in Lewis Mill or the adjacent outdoor patio overlooking the mill pond. Happy hour with wine and beer (Dominion Lager, of course) starts at 6:30 p.m. with John behind the bar. Caryl is busy in the kitchen preparing a dinner feast, which is served buffet style at around 7:30. The menu features contemporary American cuisine, often incorporating fresh vegetables plucked from the garden. Return to the patio when dinner is done and prepare for some beautiful stargazing in the quiet, dark night sky.

Accommodations at the Fort Lewis Lodge range from $175 per night in the lodge rooms to $275 for the Tall Timbers cabin. Rates are for two people and include dinner and a hearty breakfast. Call well in advance to make reservations, particularly for weekends. 540.925.2314, fortlewislodge.com