Driving Around Smith Mountain Lake's Dam End

It's not as difficult as you think! 

by Jerry Hale 

If you’re like most Lakers, residents and visitors alike, you’ve heard that a car trip completely around Smith Mountain Lake is either:

A. Impossible

B. A day’s journey

C. Dangerous and foreboding (think Deliverance down by the dam)

D. Not at all worth doing

On a sunny spring morning, Laker publisher Micah Gaudio and I set out to drive “around” the Lake. Could it be done? Would it be worth doing? Would we ever return from such a reckless adventure?

We indexed the car’s trip meter on the navigation system at the now defunct Dick’s Market at the intersection of Brooks Mill and Burnt Chimney roads. Right now, take a guess at what the “full circle” mileage will be and write it down for reference later. 

If you’re like us, you guessed too high. More on that later. Here’s a bit of what we saw along the way.

Just before the first mile of Rt. 834, we noted a nice vista on the left. Next we crossed a bridge over the Blackwater under which early Lakers claim they once water skied. Today, this up-river spot is silted-in and debris strewn — not pretty or navigable. But patience pays: another nice Lake vista did appear at mile 6.2.

As we drove, we considered the tools at our disposal. Our basic plan was to put the snazzy dashboard navigation system to the test. In my lap was the backup: a worn Lake chart with the homes of the 2002 SML Charity Home Tour clearly marked, retrieved that morning from a boat glove compartment where it had acquired a bit of mildew to prove its vintage.

That map became useless near Union Hall where Rt. 40 angles away from the Lake enough to drift off the edge of the paper. But it had shown a number of turnoffs that those unfamiliar with the Blackwater River’s southern shore might take to explore lakefront residential areas. Examples: Rt. 662 (Old Salem School Road leads out to the point at the former Banana Joe’s; following Rt. 945 (Kemp Ford Road) at the Whistle Stop to Rt. 938 (Standiford Road) will take you to the new development at the Cliffs; Rt. 945 also leads to Rt. 663 (Dillard Hill Rd.) and access to Contentment Island and Pelican Point; Rt. 645 (Old Mountain Road) at Penhook heads toward The Water’s Edge subdivision as well as Vista Point. The Laker Visitor Information map shows these and other capillary roads quite clearly.   

Our timeframe, however, didn’t allow for side trips; we were charting the “direct” route. It had been 7.0 miles down Rt. 834 and another 6.8 along Rt. 40 to the Penhook Minute Market where we stopped for local knowledge (and a breakfast biscuit). We asked customer Al Carter, who has lived in the area 50 years, the best route around the dam. He shrugged and said: “Never have taken the mountain road. No reason to.”

Landon Holland, an 80-year resident having breakfast in the adjoining Dairy Queen, was a bit more instructive: “Eight more miles to Blair’s Texaco; turn left and just stay on the main road.”  

Back on the road, we crossed the Franklin County/Pittsylvania County border a half mile west of Penhook. Another 1.5 miles turned up the sign for the SML Dam Visitor’s Center at Rt. 751. Blair’s was a few miles farther on the right, shortly after the Pigg River bridge and smack at the junction with Rt. 608 (Climax Road). A blue pole sign out front reads, “Pure Oil;” looking for a Texaco, we passed the turnoff, then backtracked and re-set the trip odometer. Locals apparently know Blair’s sells Texaco gas.

Climax Road quickly becomes Toshes Road and the first good view of the back side of Smith Mountain is on the left about two miles in. At mile 2.5, Toshes Road branches left but Rt. 608 continues as Ridgeway. At mile 4.5, notice Burning Bush Holiness Church nestled on the left – no doubt one of the area’s smaller parish buildings.

Mile 5.6 features a bridge over Leesville spillway where a sign introduces Bedford County. The road changes to Toler’s Ferry (yes, thankfully, the navigation system was noticing the name changes!) and gets more serpentine. Still, all of this is smooth-though-unlined blacktop roadway and quite manageable if you take it easy.

The spring redbuds along the roadsides were glorious. Even so, we were thinking how sensational it would be during fall foliage. Sadly, lots of timber is being cut – but that does open up views of the Mountain’s backside.   

At mile 9.5, a causeway provided a better view of Leesville Lake: a lone pontoon boat at a floating dock was the only sign of lakefront life. Between 10.2 and 10.7, several “end” views of the Mountain materialized on the left. Then, at mile 12.4, we began getting the Bedford County view of the Dam area. 

Cedar Key Wild Life Refuge is a possible stop at mile 13.8. Slow down to gawk at the restored Dora Mansion at mile 14.9. At Trading Post Road, you pick up marked center line and, a couple miles on, meet Rt. 626 (Smith Mountain Lake Parkway). A left here would provide a side trip past the State Park entrance and on to the beautiful lake and mountain views from Parkway Marina’s grassy point.

But our “direct” route called for a right to White House Corner, then a left on Whitehouse Road, which is still Rt. 608. Just over 3 more miles along, we slowed for a couple of breathtaking vistas to the left. We turned left onto Radford Church Road and, near mile 24, spotted construction at Sunset Cay, a new residential and commercial community. Once onto Hendrick’s Store Road, we passed the sites of the future Sweetwater Amphitheatre and Moneta Arts, Educations and Community Center.

At mile 26 of Rt. 608, you’ll come to the light at Rt. 122. If you’re out to truly circumnavigate the Lake, take a jog to the right, then a left at the stoplight in front of the ShopRite. Follow Diamond Hill Road (655) to a left on Horseshoe Bend Road and then right on Goodview Road, eventually leading back to Hardy Road to cross the Roanoke River at Bay Roc Marina. Hardy Road meets Rt. 122 a mile south of Booker T. Washington National Monument.  Going north ¾ mile, then turning right onto Lost Mountain Road at Halesford Baptist Church, followed by a left when you reach Burnt Chimney Road, would get  you back to where our adventure began.  

We, however, opted for the directness of Rt. 122 south back toward our starting point, turning left at Westlake Corner and then right on Rt. 834 (Brooks Mill) a half mile later. In three more minutes, the intersection of 834 with Burnt Chimney Road marked the point where we’d started 2½ hours earlier.

Our “direct route” mileage: a very manageable 58.2 in all was considerably less than we had presumed. Add a couple hours and 30 miles for side trips and you have a pleasant half-day journey. Really curious explorers could occupy the better part of a day. Pack a picnic!

It turns out Smith Mountain Lake is as much of a delight to explore by land as it is by water. Drive safely and enjoy.